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Problems of Garment Industry in Bangladesh

·       Political Problem:


    Due to political problem in the past two years around 4000 factories in Dhaka have been on wildcat strike, 16 factories were burnt down by strikers and hundreds more ransacked and looted, pitched battles were fought with cops and private security forces in workplaces. These events have ignited a wave of fierce class struggle in the garment industry up and down the country. These revolts are spreading beyond the workplace and are absorbing the wider working class community.                                                                     
    Garments industries often pay dearly for political unrest, hartal and terrorism etc. The international market has withdrawn quota advantage over garments export form Bangladesh since December 2005.
    
    The allegations of planned and rumour-fed violence against the garments industry should be duly investigated. If the allegations prove to have any basis, the authorities need to find out who are investigating the violence from time to time and why. The Chairmen of BGMEA and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) alleged time and again, that the incidents, instigated from outside, were deliberate attempts to foment unrest in the garments industry. Some unknown quarters, they say, are out to destroy the vibrant garments industry of Bangladesh to promote their hidden agenda.


    No aggrieved worker can do what the unknown elements are doing to damage the industry, they say. Only outsiders, without any sense of belonging to the industry can be as unruly as they are. Such elements smash and loot anything in the factories without any hesitation. In the process 400 garments factories were damaged in recent years. Some of the incidents, according to allegations, were prompted by non-government organizations (NGOs).


    A separate ministry can obviously pay the needed attention to all these concerns. The government needs to give up its indifference to create a separate ministry as suggested by BGMEA.

·       Social Problem:
      Since freedom is the birth right of a man, mother’s milk, fathers affection and love are the birth right of a child. Mother and father are working in garments all the day round and earn money not enough to live together. So, they are bound keep their child in the village with their mother, mother in law or sister in law. The child must not be growing like any other child who lives with their father and mother. As a result, this child is becoming irrigative. Its mental growth is downward. He or she is not getting a good environment of education. He is always dejected. The child is growing up in an unwelcome world. In the long run, this child will not honor the parents since relationship is not as such. What will happen after 50 years if the children are not grown properly? 
    From the law of business, we have seen that if the owner is unable to provide good working environment for the worker, it is the violation of law. Side by side the workers must get a good compensation package from the owner. This compensation package must include salary, medical service, home allowances, transportation, trainings and education. Many workers have the potentialities to do something better. If they are provided training, they can go in higher ranks and lead a good life. This opportunity also motivates them to work spontaneously. 
     The recommended minimum average wages (which include Traveling Allowance, House Rent, Medical Allowance, Maternity Benefit, Festival Bonus and Overtime Benefit) in the units within the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones (BEPZ) are given about 40% lower than outside the BEPZ. These discriminations mental strength to the unrest situation, which creates social problems.
·       Environmental Problem:

Photo:  Industrial waste indiscriminately dumped in water body to the peril of the localities around.
      Environmental problems of today are of complex character as industrialization has been diversified in quality and by regions. Environmental pollution depends on various factors like type of industry, raw materials, production technologies, location of industries, etc. For a particular type of industry, change in energy source e.g. shifting from coal to petrol/diesel, and raw materials as well, caused significant change in types of diseases as well as magnitude of damages.                                                                      
    Even before becoming industrial powers, the industrialized nations caused a variety of environmental problems. They are still confronting with serious environmental issues of water, food and air pollution. Some of them have been solved by the application of engineering techniques or by imposing legal constraints, while others still remain untouched or unresolved. They are now thinking of striking a balance between industrial development and environmental problems.
    Till 1962 the number of industries in Dhaka was about 100, most of them of small to medium scale and located mostly in present old Dhaka area. The important industries in the country are textile & dyeing, leather, paper and pulp, fertilizer, sugar, steel, oil refining, chemical and pharmaceuticals and other small scale agro-based and agro-allied industries and of course the readymade garments.
 
  In 1986, DoE identified 903 industries as most polluting that swelled to 1176 in 1997. Currently the list of polluting industries is expected to be much longer. Many industries are located on the banks of natural streams or rivers while many others in the residential areas causing air and water pollution through smoke emission and dumping of untreated effluent. Monitoring results by the Department of Environment (DoE) and other research organizations indicated alarming level of the localised air and water pollution by those industries. The condition of Buriganga, Balu, Turag, Shitalakshya, Karnafuli, Bhairab rivers is a glaring example of deteriorating environment. 
 
  Rapid and unplanned urbanization, commercial development along with very high population pressure have made Dhaka an environmentally polluted city in the world. The number of tanneries has increased to over 200 from 26 in 1975. Nearly 2000 garments industries have been established all over the city since the early 1980s. Rapid and unplanned establishment of industries in different places of the city is responsible for localized pollution effects. As a result, water of those surrounding rivers and lakes has already exceeded the national standard limit in pollution.
    The concern about environmental issues, however, has been reflected in different policy initiatives taken by the government of Bangladesh. The major policy initiatives, strategies and plans emphasized environment and natural resources management to achieve sustainable development. The National Environment Policy 1992, National Forest Policy 1994, National Water Policy 1999, National Agriculture Policy 1999, National Land Use Policy, 2001 all aimed to ensure development in harmony with the natural environment. The Wetland Policy (Draft) puts special emphasis on the conservation of wetlands.

    Government along with industry owners should come forward to minimize this problem and people from all sectors should be concern not to pollute the environment any more.
·       Financial Problem:
      Though financial prospects are more in case of RMG industry than financial problem, there have some financial problem.
    Sometimes due to political unrest situation like inter-factory strike, hartal & many other causes delay or missing of garments order delivery. These things causes serious hamper in industry finance & in overall export & earnings too.
     On the other hand, these industries are causes massive environmental pollutions. And financial losses due to these pollutions are now measuring by money. A strategic cost/benefit analysis indicates that, with continuing increase in the urban population and ongoing deterioration of the environment of Dhaka city consequent, losses would mount from year to year. Without any action, the total estimated minimum financial loss (cost to the economy of Dhaka and Bangladesh as a whole) would be US$ 51.1 billion over the next 20 years. Contrarily, if appropriate measures are taken to clean up Dhaka, estimated net economic benefit would be more than US$ 50.0 billion. Results of environmental protection will be realized through increased agricultural and industrial productivity, improved human health, increased biodiversity, etc.
·         Technological Problem:  
    Bangladesh is unique in RMG production in comparison with the other RMG producing country because of less cost of labour. For this reason, upgraded technologies are used less in this country. Beside this, for economic & quality production quite updated technologies are used.
    For pattern & marker making Computer Aided Design (CAD) & Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) are using.
    In Sewing Section, which is the largest part of the garments industry using Special type of sewing machines like Button hole machine, Button attaching machine, Bartak machine, Blind stitch machine etc. are using. High speed Lock stitch machine (SPM: 1500-5500), Chain stitch machine (Stitch length: 1.5-4.5mm), Over lock machine (SPM: 6500-8500), Flat lock machine (SPM: 6000) etc. are used in most of the modern factories.
     Maximum 9 needle sewing machines are using too.
     And for final Finishing, High quality washing machines with Stone wash, Normal wash are using in individual Washing Plants.
    After-all the aim is to produce Economic production by ensuring high quality.                                                                                                                                                            

·       Problem with Women in Garments:
      From the Table-5 of page no.-12 we see the actual percentages of women employment in RMG industry is around 88% on average. After being the greatest part of this industry they still discrimination in comparison with international standard of wage or salary.

Table-6: Average Hourly Wages in RMG Industry (Where 88% of total is women):


Ref: Journal of Textile & Apparel Technology & Management
Volume-6, Issue-2, Fall-2009.

    Even they discriminate in comparison to men workers in the RMG factories. More on, the participation of women in administration is very rare.
     Beside this, they also faced problem in work place due to environment of work, attitude towards them, mental & even physical harassments too. Due to over-night duty they have to face social problems too.



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